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North-South-East-West: American Indians and the Natural World The Circle of Relatives The Arts of Mothers, Sisters, and Wives
Lakota women, respected for their skill as artists, excelled in quillwork and beadwork. Artists ingeniously converted porcupine quills, readily found in nature, into elaborate surface decorations. When glass beads were imported from Europe as a trade item in the nineteenth century, Plains women stitched them into their own traditional patterns, so that today beadwork is regarded as a purely indigenous art form. Lakota women have maintained an unbroken tradition of making quill- and beadwork embroidery, continuing to do beautiful work today.
Because of the Plains peoples' dependence on the buffalo, hunting territories were important, and competition for the best areas gave rise to a warrior culture and the stereotypical image with which we are familiar: the buffalo-hunting warrior on horseback. Men gained status by the number of horses in their possession and their valor in defending their territories. Feathers predominate in the paraphernalia of Plains men, and the eagle feather bonnet has become the most recognized symbol of the American Indian. Traditionally, only men of honor with accomplishments in warfare were eligible to wear these bonnets. The Plains Indian Wars ended in 1890 with the Battle of Wounded Knee, effectively terminating the functional need for warriors. The warriors' continuing emotional needs, however, resulted in great frustration. Young men could not fulfill the requirements necessary for warriors to attain positions of honor, leadership, and the right to wear the meaningful eagle feathers. In the twentieth century, by serving in the U.S. military, Plains men—and many other American Indians—have found an opportunity to continue the warrior life. Servicemen receive the same respect once given to warriors on horseback. Beginning the Circle Lakota mothers sought to protect their children from physical harm and the elements. They thought the Euro-American-style sunbonnet, like the umbrella, was quite sensible on the treeless Plains. They preferred, however, to construct bonnets from hide decorated with beads or quills, rather than from cotton calico. Children's belongings, such as amulets, were often decorated with animals, such as the lizard and the turtle, who are generally considered the guardians of a safe and long life. Playthings teach children what it takes to be an adult. Mothers made miniature versions of women's equipment for their daughters to play with while practicing for their future roles as adults. Feathers Feathers were important to the Lakota. They used feathers from the Golden Eagle, Bald Eagle, Great Horned Owl, Red-tailed Hawk, Cooper's Hawk, Turkey Vulture, Crow, Raven, Northern Harrier, and Turkey. Most of these birds are birds of prey, preferred for Plains feather bonnets. Bald and Golden Eagle feathers are protected under the federal Bald Eagle Protection Act. Carnegie Museum has a special permit to possess and exhibit eagle feathers. All of these feathers were obtained by Native people prior to enactment of the federal law and were either donated to or purchased by the museum. Bald Eagles have been protected since 1940 and the Golden Eagle since 1962. Image 1: Man's Moccasins Image 2: Shield Image 3: Doll and Carrier Image 4: Headdress and Trailer
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Lakota women were partners with men in the work of raising children
and supporting a family, although they
had separate spheres of activity. One way Lakota women cared for their families was
to make and decorate beautiful clothing for all members, including their brothers to
whom they had a lifelong obligation. Fine apparel for their families was and still
is a sign of affection and honor from wives, mothers, sisters, and grandmothers.
Hunters and Warriors
Plains children are the treasures of the tribe. Traditionally, they
began life wrapped snugly in a lovingly decorated baby carrier made
by an aunt or a grandmother.
The tail feathers of the eagle, especially the immature Golden
Eagle, are prized above all others because they are white with
black tips.
Image 5: Amulet